Chogolisa Peak (7665m)



Chogolisa 7,665 meters (25,148 feet) high is the 36 th highest mountain in the world. Chogolisa is part of the Masherbrum Karakoram in Baltistan. The geographic coordinates of the mountain are 35°36'42?N, 76°34'18?E. The mountain prominence (a measure of vertical separation between mountains) of Chogolisa is 1,624 meters and its parent mountain is Masherbrum. The first ascent of Chogolisa occurred in 1975.
Chogolisa is one of the highest mountains of central Karakoram and form an impressive trapezoid comprising 2 summits (North-eastern summit - 7,654m., South-western summit - 7,665m) and 4 ridges. First, Martin Conway explored the area that was very impressive by this white pyramid of snow christened “Bride Peak “(means the wife of K2 just opposite, a pretty couple!). The mortals veils of Chogolisa as unreal whiteness are where disappeared H.Buhl in 1957 on a cornice on the North-eastern ridge around 7,100 m, without rope and blind by a thick fog whereas he climbed the top with K.Diemberger. Climbing Chogolisa is one of the easiest climb of Karakoram, but this tragedy shows that even the best climber’s ones can make big errors. Martin Conway try the first to climb the summit (three times without success), attempts continue in 1909 with Louis Amédée of Savoy, duke of Abruzzi, J.Petigax, H. and A. Brocherel of Courmayeur which make a challenging climb until in 1922: all the difficulties crossed about 7400 m, they turn back in a thick fog at 250 meters down the top.The 4 August, 1958, Japanese K.Hirai &. Fujihira try to reach the top again but didn't go beyond the North-eastern summit (7654m) completing an exploration started in 1892 by Martin Conway. 2 French climbers died in 1986 during a sky descent from the top.The first climb of the South-western top was made by Austrians G.Ammerer and A.Pressl by the Western edge in 1975; the second time , by B.Aucher French, P.Dubois, J.M.Galmiche and E.Monier by the Southern edge in 1984. In 1986, the british L.Elliot, A. Fanshawe, H.Irvine and S.Lamb made the first traverse between the 2 summits, from West to East, and finished by the North-eastern summit.



DAY-01 Arrival at Benazir International Aiport Islamabad and transfer to hotel.
DAY-02 Briefing at the Alpine Club of Pakistan Meeting with Liaison Officer.
DAY-03 Departure for Chilas via Silk Rout, sight seeing all along the rout with the company of Indus river the longest river of Pakistan It flows from Tibet northwest across the Indian-controlled portion of Jammu and Kashmir, passing between the western extremity of the Himalayas and the
northern extremity of the Hindu Kush mountain range; it then courses generally south through Pakistan to the Arabian Sea. Check in hotel. Overnight in Chilas.
DAY-04 Drives to Skardu overnight in Chilas.
Day 5 Final arrangement of Expedition.
Day 6 Drive to Askole..
Day 7 to 13 Trek to Chogolisa Base Camp
Day 14 to 39 Climbing,length of climbing period depends on the weather,experience and fitness of the climber.
DAY-40 to 45 back to Skardu via hushe.
DAY-46 Fly back to Islamabad if unable due to bad weather same day drive to Islamabad.Overnight in Chilas.
DAY-47 Arrival in Islamabad.
Day- 48

De-briefing at Alpine Club of Paksitan and transfer to Airport for your onward destination.

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