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K2 ( Chogori ) 8611 M
 
 
 

K2 8611-M is the second highest peak in the world and highest peak in Pakistan. K2 also known as CHOGORI which is Balti language means the king of mountains.K2 has variously be described as "awesome" , " Killer " and "Savage Mountain. This is because of massiveness of its size and unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expedition parties.K2 is rocky mountain upto 6000-M, beyond which it becomes an ocean of snow. K2 8611-M is situated on the Pakistan China border in the mighty Karakorams. The traditional rout to its base camp goes from Skardu Baltistan which is linked with Islamabad by Karakoram Highway as well as by air. From Skardu the rout goes via Shigar-Dassu-Askole upto Concordia over the Baltoro Glacier. 

It was in 1856, when the British were enforcing their control over India provoking the 1857 war of Independence, that a young Lieutenant of the Royal Engineers, T.G.Montgomerie, was quietly busy in surveying the mountains of Kashmir he saw this tallest mountain towards Karakoram and named it K2.The name K2 however still stands.

In 1860 Captain Henry Haversham Godwin Austen of the Survey of India went to Baltistan are and surveyed the famous Shigar and Saltoro Valleys. He was considered as one of the greatest mountaineer of day, had great power of endurance and was immensely brave. It is a myth that the K2 peak which is erroneously called Godwin- Austen peak was discovered by him.It is however a fact that he explored the gateway to K2 i-e Baltoro Glacier alongiwth famous glaciers including Godwin Austen glacier.

It was probably for the first time in 1902 that an organised expedition of Oscar J.L Eckenstein trvelled to K2 from Baltoro glacier. The expedition was without any guide. Its aim was to explore approaches to the mountain and possibly have a try on the peak. The party collected useful information about the upper Godwin Austen glacier which was used as a stepping stone by expedition in later years. Two members of the expedition one Swiss Dr.Jules Jacot-Guillarmot and other an Austrian by the name of Dr. V.Wesseley succeededin reaching 6523-M on the north eastern ridge of K2.

In 1909 a big Italian expedition under the leadership of resolute Luigi Amadeo Giuseppe (Duke of Abruzzi) the grandson of King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy, reconnoitred K2 peak. Its members produced a very good account of the expedition with photographs and accurate maps of Baltoro area.

Two famous British mountaineers Harold William Tilman and Eric Earle Shipton explored and surveyed the north face of K2 and its subsidiary glaciers in 1937. 

In 1938 the American Alpine Club sponsored reconnaissance party for a visit to K2 area.The party reached a height of 7925-M after setting up eight camps. Famous American mountaineers like Dr. Charles Houston and Robert Bates were in this party. Next year another American expedition tried to climb K2 led by Fritz Hermann Ernst Wiessner a German- American chemist and mountaineer. The expedition along with Nine Sherpas made very good progress on the already identified south east ridge. Wiessner alongwith one sherpa went upto approximately 8382-M. In this expedition Wolfe and three sherpas died on K2.

Another American expedition attempt on the K2 8611-M was made in 1953. The expedition leader was Dr. Charles Houstton who had also led the 1938 American expedition on this peak. Dr.Houston medical professor noted for his contribution to research on the effects of high altitude on human body and diseases originating from such effects. One Pakistani Late Colonel Mr.Ataullah also accompanied the party.

In 1954 an Italian expdittion came to Pakistan to try its luck on K2. It consisted of twelve climber and four scientists and was led by veteran mountaineer Professor Ardito Desio, who had come to these mountains with italian expeditions before the Word war II. 
This expedition made very good progress and set up camp II. It was at this cmap that one of its members Mario Puchoz a 36 year old guide died of pneumonia on the 21st June 1954. 

The party extablished six more camps on the south east ridge Camp IX was bivouac. On the 31st July Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagononi started from the bivouac. They exhausted their oxygen supply 500 feet short of summit but could not resist the temptation to be the first to climb the mighty K2 peak. They therefore continued their assault and reached the summit at six in the evening. After staying for a while they started descending and reached camp VIII round about eleven at night. In this way the saga of K2 ended.

 

 

ITINERARY 

 

 

DAY 01 ARRIVAL ISLAMABAD
 
Arrival AT Benazir International Airport and transfer to Hotel..
 
Day 02 ALPINE CLUB OF PAKISTAN.
 

Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan Islamabad.Overnight in Hotel.

 
DAY 03 RAWALPINDI / CHILAS
 
Departure for Chilas via Silk Rout, sight seeing all along the rout with the company of Indus river the longest river of Pakistan It flows from Tibet northwest across the Indian-controlled portion of Jammu and Kashmir, passing between the western extremity of the Himalayas and the northern extremity of the Hindu Kush mountain range; it then courses generally south through Pakistan to the Arabian Sea.
Check in hotel. Overnight in Chilas.
 
DAY 04 CHILAS / SKARDU
 
Arrival in Skardu.
Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.
 
DAY 05 SKARDU
 
Final arrangement for the expedition.
 
DAY 06 SKARDU -TO- ASKOLE
 
Full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole. The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. Highest in the region, the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells riven by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces. Overnight in tents.
Distance 96 km
Drive 07-08 hrs
Altitude 3050 m
 
DAY 07 ASKOLE -TO- KOROPHONE
Leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition. After scrambling over a ridge we come across what legend says an old polo field. Passing through a rock gap we cross the Biafo glacier and camp beside its snout at korophone. The Biafo Glacier is a huge river of ice 63 Km long which descends from the central peaks of the Karakoram & flows East into the Braldu Valley at a point about 10 Kms east of Askole. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 03 - 04 hrs
Grade : Easy
Altitude : 3100 M
 
DAY 08 KOROPHONE -TO- JHULA
 
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire rope bridge with a hanging wooden basket), now a wooden bridge is made cross it & camp beside a torrent facing the Bakhordas.
Walk : 03-04 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 3150 M
 
DAY 09 JHULA -TO- PAIJU
 
Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Paiju - is a Balti word which means "SALT". Since there are some rock salt deposits at the base of this peak, the locals believe that the snow on the summit of Paiju Peak is not snow but a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we have the first views of the impressive Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05-06 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 3480 M.
 
DAY 10 PAIJU - Rest Day
 
Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju. Overnight in tents.
 
DAY 11 PAIJU -TO- URDUKAS
 
Begin trek after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju - Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Cross the Khuburse torrent early morning and ramble over two glacier moraines to reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 4130 M
 
DAY 12 URDUKAS -TO- GORO
 
A long walk on the Icy Baltoro Glacier. Traverse the Yermanandu Glacier which flows down from Masherbrum & joins the Baltoro. Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 4500 M.
 
DAY 13 GORO TO CONCORDIA
 
Early morning resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia - a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters . Within a short radius of 15 Kilometers, stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. including 04 peaks above 8000 M. The 360 view offers a panorama of peaks nowhere to be found on this Earth. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05 - 06 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4720 M.
 
DAY 14 CONCORDIA REST DAY
 
Final day of trek to K2 base. A 4-hrs trek will bring you to the base of K2.
Overnight in tents.
Walk : 04 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4650 M.
 
DAY 15 CLIMBING to DAY 57 CLIMBING
 
Climbing start towards Summit. Length of Climbing period depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climber
 
DAY 58 TREKKING BACK TO ALI CAMP
 
After an early breakfast leave the K2 base camp and we will cross Concordia and several side glacier to reach our right path. After 4-5 hours we will reach Vigne glacier, it is also possible to walk on the Vigne glacier which is fairly easy then walking on the stony bath on the right side of the glacier but it depend on the snow condition. Overnight in tents.
 
DAY 59 ALI CAMP -CROSS GONDOGORO PASS- KHUSPANG
 
A very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock does in the morning to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 10 - 11 hrs.
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 5700 M
 
DAY 60 KHUSPANG -TO- SHAICHO
 
You pick your way across moving boulders and ice, finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning 'field of flowers', lives up to its name. Keep yourself on the left side of the lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The next hour is an unpleasant scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised above, ready to fall.
Continue your trek along the path goes down hill to the summer settlement called Shaicho, a large shepherds settlement. This is the traditional camp among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. Walk : 07-08 hrs
Grade : Moderate
 
 
DAY 61 SHAICHO -TO- HUSHEY
 
After breakfast continue your walk along the Hushey river on a easy path. An easy day will bring you to Hushey village. Overnight in tents.
 
 
DAY 62 HUSHEY -TO- SKARDU
 
A full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to Hotel. 
 
DAY 63 SKARDU - CHILAS
 
Flight to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Chilas Overnight in hotel.
 
DAY 64 CHILAS TO ISLAMABAD
 
Arrival in Islamabad.Overnight in Hotel.
 
DAY 65 ISLAMABAD
 
De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan, Islamabad.
 
DAY 66 DEPARTURE
 

Transfer to Benazir International Airport Islamabad for your onward destination.

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