|
|
BROAD PEAK 8047-M
The name of Broad Peak was introduced by W.M.Convey a
British explorer during his expedition in 1892.The literal translation
into the Balti “Phalchan Kangri” Its longitude is 76°34'25”E
and latitude is: 35°48'35 '' N.Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain
in the world. The first ascent was made in 1957 by an Austrian expedition
using many of the fixed lines set up by the failed German expedition of
1954. Four members of the Austrian team summited without using oxegen:
Hermann Buhl, Fritz Winterstellar, Kurt Diemberger, and Marcus Schmuck.
Broad Peak has three seperate summits: Main Summit 8,047
meters, Central Summit 8,016 meters, and North Summit 7,550 meters. The
central summit was first climbed in 1975 by six members of a Polish expedition.
The north summit was finally acquired in 1983 by an Italian expedition
led by Renato Casarotto.
Broad Peak is one of four 8000 meter peaks located in a tight cluster
in the upper reaches of the Baltoro Glacier, the principal access to that
part of the Karakoram. It has the distinction of being in the same valley
as the famous K2.
Base camp for Broad Peak is a short 2 hours walk from Concordia, nature’s
version of a highway interchange where several glaciers merge into the
Baltoro. Broad’s base camp is only a couple hours from K2 Base Camp,
which might be visited in anticipation of future trips.
Expeditions to the Karakoram invariably start from Islamabad.
Once the formalities with the government have been completed, you will
continue on to Skardu, located in the district of Baltistan. This trip
is made by one of two methods. Often preferred is the air route (when
the weather permits), not only because the flight is only an hour, but
also because you fly past Nanga Parbat on the way. Alternately, you may
take a bus along the Indus River, first following the Karakoram Highway,
then branching through the spectacular Indus River gorge as you approach
Skardu. The latter route is long, but recommended at least once during
multiple visits to the region.
From Skardu, you will jeep to Askole, the last village
on the trek. A couple long days bring you to Paiju and the tongue of the
Baltoro. Here you will take a rest day as the porters prepare their food
for the glacier. Your next stop is Urdukas, a grassy knoll located immediately
opposite the Trango Towers and Uli Biaho. Your porters will likely be
willing to push the next day to Concordia, which has spectacular views
not only of K2 & Broad Peak, but also Gasherbrum IV. They will do
this because they will have time the next day to reach BC and return.
Broad Peak has the reputation of being one of the easier
8000 meter peaks. Though the route is not technically challenging, it
is not a mountain to be taken lightly since the route crosses prominent
avalanche terrain. Base Camp is at 5000 meters. Sub-camps are typically
placed at around 5800, 6250 & 6900 meters.
Depending on the weather, Broad Peak can be completed
in as little as six weeks or as long as nine weeks. The return trip is
often over the 6000 meter Gondogoro La and the beautifully green Hushe
Valley from which you return to Skardu.
ITINERARY
DAY 01 & 02 ARRIVAL RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD
Arrival and transfer to hotel.
DAY 02 RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD
Briefing at Ministry of Tourism and meeting with Liaison Officer.AfternoonCity
tour of Rawalpindi/Islamabad. Tour includes the exciting Capital of Pakistan
and the low hills of Margalla where spectacular views of the twin cities
are available. Overnight in Hotel.
DAY 03 RAWALPINDI/CHILAS
Flight to Skardu, If the flight cancelled due to bad weather same day
departure for Chilas via Silk Rout, sight seeing all along the rout with
the company of Indus river the longest river of Pakistan It flows from
Tibet northwest across the Indian-controlled portion of Jammu and Kashmir,
passing between the western extremity of the Himalayas and the
northern extremity of the Hindu Kush mountain range; it then courses generally
south through Pakistan to the Arabian Sea. Check in hotel. Overnight in
Chilas.
DAY 04 CHILAS / SKARDU
Arrival in Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24
hours.
DAY 05 SKARDU
Day at leisure. while staff will make final arrangement for the expedition.
DAY 06 SKARDU -TO- ASKOLE
Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole. The
last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. Highest in the region,
the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells riven
by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces.
Overnight in tents.
Distance 96 km
Drive 07-08 hrs
Altitude 3050 m
DAY 07 ASKOLE -TO- KOROPHONE
Today we leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining
portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s
and sustain our expedition. After scrambling over a ridge we come across
what legend says an old polo field. Passing through a rock gap we cross
the Biafo glacier and camp beside its snout at korophone. The
Biafo Glacier is a huge river of ice 63 Km long which descends from the
central peaks of the Karakoram & flows East into the Braldu Valley
at a point about 10 Kms east of Askole. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 03 - 04 hrs
Grade : Easy
Altitude : 3100 M
DAY 08 KOROPHONE -TO- JHULA
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire rope
bridge with a hanging wooden basket), now a wooden bridge is made cross
it & camp beside a torrent facing the Bakhordas.
Walk : 03-04 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 3150 M
DAY 09 JHULA -TO- PAIJU
Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows
of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Paiju - is a Balti word which means "SALT".
Since there are some rock salt deposits at the base of this peak, the
locals believe that the snow on the summit of Paiju Peak is not snow but
a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we
have the first views of the impressive Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05-06 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 3480 M.
DAY 10 PAIJU - Rest Day
Rest & acclimatization day at Piaju. Overnight in tents. All meals
served by camp staff.
DAY 11 PAIJU -TO- URDUKAS
Begin trek after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju -
Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional
camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Cross the
Khuburse torrent early morning and ramble over two glacier moraines to
reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango,
Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 4130 M
DAY 12 URDUKAS -TO- GORO
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. Traverse the Yermanandu Glacier
which flows down from Masherbrum & joins the Baltoro. Magnificent
views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 4500 M.
DAY 13 GORO TO CONCORDIA
Early morning resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called
Concordia.A a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers
at 4000 meters . Within a short radius of 15 Kilometers, stand 41 peaks
over 6500 meters, including 04 peaks above 8000 M. The 360 view offers
a panorama of peaks nowhere to be found on this Earth. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05 - 06 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4720 M.
DAY 14 CONCORDIA REST DAY
Final day of trek to Broad Peak base. A 2 hrs trek will bring you to the
base of Broad Peak. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 04-06 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4650 M
DAY 15 to DAY 56 CLIMBING
Climbing start towards Summit. Length of Climbing period depends on weather,
fitness, and experience of the climber.
DAY 57 TREKKING BACK TO ALI CAMP
After an early breakfast leave the base camp and we will cross Concordia
and several side glacier to reach our right path. After 4-5 hours we will
reach Vigne glacier, it is also possible to walk on the Vigne glacier
which is fairly easy then walking on the stony bath on the right side
of the glacier but it depend on the snow condition. Overnight in tents..
DAY 58 ALI CAMP -CROSS GONDOGORO PASS- KHUSPANG
A very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock does in the morning
to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 10 - 11 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 5700 M
DAY 59 KHUSPANG -TO- SHAICHO
After a couple of minutes of easy walk we will comes onto the glacier.
You pick your way across moving boulders and ice, finally crossing the
glacier up to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning 'field of flowers',
lives up to its name. It is a beautiful campsite at about 4,150 meters,
set between two lakes, with Masherbrum Mountain and the
white glacier cascading down from Masherbrum Pass reflected in the still
water. Resume trek along the path, Keep yourself on the left side of the
lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The next hour is an unpleasant
scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised
above, ready to fall. Continue your trek along the path goes down hill
to the summer settlement called Shaicho, a large shepherds settlement
with its won
mosque, now here you can find a hotel and mountaineering equipment shop.
This is the traditional camp among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow
trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. Walk :
07-08 hrs, Grade : Moderate, Altitude .
DAY 60 SHAICHO -TO- HUSHEY
After breakfast continue your walk along the Hushey river on a easy path.
Upon arrival camp near the fields in Hushey village. An easy day will
bring you to Hushey village. Evening free. Overnight in tents.
DAY 61 HUSHEY -TO- SKARDU
Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon
arrival transfer to Hotel.
DAY 62 SKARDU - RAWALPINIDI
Flight to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight
in hotel.
DAY 63 RAWALPINDI
Arrival and transfer to hotel. Evening sightseeing.
DAY 64 RAWALPINDI
De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad.
DAY 65 FLY BACK HOME
Transfer to airport for your onward flight.
End of our services
List of Mountains K-2 Nanga Parbat Hidden Peak Broad Peak Gasherbrum II Muztagh Ata Spantik |