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Chogolisa Peak 7665 M - Saltoro Summits

Chogolisa 7,665 meters (25,148 feet) high is the 36 the highest mountain in the world. Chogolisa is part of the Masherbrum Karakoram in Baltistan. The geographic coordinates of the mountain are 35°36'42?N, 76°34'18?E. The mountain prominence (a measure of vertical separation between mountains) of Chogolisa is 1,624 meters and its parent mountain is Masherbrum. The first ascent of Chogolisa occurred in 1975.
Chogolisa is one of the highest mountains of central Karakoram and forms an impressive trapezoid comprising 2 summits (North-eastern summit - 7,654m., South-western summit - 7,665m) and 4 ridges. First, Martin Conway explored the area that was very impressive by this white pyramid of snow christened “Bride Peak “(means the wife of K2 just opposite, a pretty couple!). The mortal's veils of Chogolisa as unreal whiteness are where disappeared H.Buhl in 1957 on a cornice on the North-eastern ridge around 7,100 m, without rope and blind by a thick fog whereas he climbed the top with K.Diemberger. Climbing Chogolisa is one of the easiest climbs of Karakoram, but this tragedy shows that even the best climber’s ones can make big errors. Martin Conway tries the first to climb the summit (three times without success), attempts continue in 1909 with Louis Amédée of Savoy, Duke of Abruzzi, J.Petigax, H. and A. Brocherel of Courmayeur which make a challenging climb until in 1922: all the difficulties crossed about 7400 m, they turn back in thick fog at 250 meters down the top. The 4 August 1958, Japanese K.Hirai &. Fujihira tries to reach the top again but didn't go beyond the North-eastern summit (7654m) completing an exploration started in 1892 by Martin Conway. 2 French climbers died in 1986 during a ski descent from the top. The first climb of the South-western top was made by Austrians G.Ammerer and A.Pressl by the Western edge in 1975; the second time, by B.Aucher French, P.Dubois, J.M.Galmiche, and E.Monier by the Southern edge in 1984. In 1986, the British L.Elliot, A. Fanshawe, H.Irvine and S.Lamb made the first traverse between the 2 summits, from West to East, and finished by the North-eastern summit.

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Location: Chillas KPK

Duration:45 Days

Min Age:18

Max People:12

1
Day 1 : ARRIVAL -ISLAMABAD INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Arrival at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to the hotel. In the evening briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in the hotel.
2
Day 2 : ISLAMABAD TO CHILAS
Departure for Chilas via Babusar Top, Kaghan Valley Check-in hotel at Chilas.
3
Day 3 : CHILAS TO SKARDU
Arrival in Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours. Overnight in the hotel
4
Day 4 : SKARDU
Final arrangement of the Expedition.
5
Day 5 : SKARDU TO ASKOLE
Full day drives with Jeeps on a winding trail to Askole, through a wild, impressive landscape and wild gorges. Overnight stay in tents in the small village of Askole. Distance 96 km Drive 07-08 hrs Altitude 3050 m
6
Day 6 : ASKOLE TO KOROPHONE
After an early breakfast leaves the last inhabited village, the remaining portion of our journey, we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our Expedition. Overnight in tents. Walk 03 - 04 hrs. Grade: Easy Altitude: 3100 M
7
Day 7 : KOROPHONE TO JHULA
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula. Overnight in the tents. Walk: 03-04 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 3150 M
8
Day 8 : JHULA TO PAIYU
Trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Overnight in tents. Walk: 05-06 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 3480 M.
9
Day 9 : PAIYU CAMP
Traditional rest day for acclimatization at Paiju camp. Paiyu is a Balti word which means "SALT". Overnight in tents.
10
Day 10 : PAIYU TO URDUKAS
Trekking starts towards Urdukas after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju - Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 4130 M
11
Day 11 : URDUKAS TO GORO
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier, with Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 4500 M.
12
Day 12 : GORO TO CONCORDIA
Trek on the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia. The climax of the Trek is the spectacular conjunction of the Godwin-Austin and Baltoro Glaciers called Concordia, lying at the heart of the most heavily glaciated region outside the Polar areas within a radius of 19 km stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. including 04 peaks above 8000 M., This is the center of the densest concentration of the lofty peaks on Earth. Overnight in tents. Walk: 05 - 06 hrs Grade: strenuous Altitude: 4720 M
13
Day 13 : CONCORDIA TO CHOGOLISA BASE CAMP
After early morning breakfast start your trek towards Chogolisa Base Camp. Overnight in tents
14
Day 14 : CLIMBING DAYS 14 to 37
Climbing start towards Summit. The length of the Climbing period depends on the weather, fitness, and experience of the climber.
38
Day 38 : CHOGOLISA BASE CAMP TO ALI CAMP
Early morning trekking back to Ali camp via Upper part of Baltoro Glacier. Coming from Gasherbrum base camp, there's an even longer day's walk. Try to get over the rivers early on the walk down the valley. Overnight in tents.
39
Day 39 : ALI CAMP -CROSSING GONDOGORO LA - KHUSPANG
To avoid the risk of rockfalls on the descent on the Hushe side, we start very early around 2 am. After an early breakfast, we will wear crampons and harnesses and set off, roped together onto the West Vigne Glacier towards the foot of the Gondogoro-La pass. After 3-4 hours of steep and strenuous ascent, we reach the top to be rewarded with stunning views of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum. Then descend towards to Hushe valley in another territory of Baltistan. Overnight in tents. Walk: 10 - 12 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 5700 M
40
Day 40 : KHUSPANG TO SHAICHO
There is one tricky crevasse section to be crossed just after Khuspang but after that the remaining part of glacier crossing is rather simple to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning 'field of flowers', lives up to its name. The beautiful flowers and fauna of Hushe Valley make you feel fresh and energized. After Laila Peak Base Camp, a nice trek to Shaicho, a very green campsite just by Hushe River. If weather clear you can see Masherbrum Peak from the Hushe side. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate
41
Day 41 : SHAICHO TO HUSHEY
This is the last day of the trek following Hushe River along with the greens. Start your easy trek after an early breakfast down towards beautiful Hushe village. Overnight in tents
42
Day 42 : HUSHEY TO SKARDU
After breakfast drive for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to the hotel.
43
Day 43 : SKARDU TO ISLAMABAD
Flight to Islamabad, if unable due to bad weather same day drive to Kaghan Valley via Babusar Top. Overnight in the hotel.
44
Day 44 : KAGHAN TO ISLAMABAD
Early morning drive to Islamabad. Overnight in the Hotel.
45
Day 45 : ISLAMABAD - DE BRIEFING
De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan Islamabad & Transfer to Islamabad International Aiport for your onward destination. End of our Services. Thank YOU!

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