Rakaposhi, located in the Karakoram mountain range, is a stunning peak in the Nagar Valley, about 100 km north of Gilgit. Its name translates to “shining wall” in the local language, reflecting its breathtaking appearance. Also referred to as Rakaposhi Peak or Dumani (“Mother of Mist”), it is the 27th highest mountain globally and the 12th highest in Pakistan. Despite its ranking, Rakaposhi is celebrated worldwide for its unparalleled beauty.
The mountain was first ascended in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey during a British-Pakistani expedition via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Although the climbers achieved success, the journey came with challenges, including frostbite and the tragic loss of a team member during the descent.
Route: Alpine Club of Pakistan → Minapin → Rakaposhi Base Camp → Karimabad Hunza
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